Why Comuna 13, Medellín Has A Place In My Heart

When planning my trip to Colombia, friends and family couldn’t understand my interest in adding Medellín to my itinerary. Questions like “Isn’t it dangerous there?” and “What about the cartel and crime?” constantly buzzed in my ear. I was aware of the city’s notorious past. Who wasn’t familiar with its reputation of being the most dangerous city in the world? Medellín, a territory once ruled by the infamous Pablo Escobar, with 380 killings per 100,000 people, didn’t sound like an ideal place for sightseeing. At least it wasn’t about twenty years ago. However, over the years, there have been some fundamental changes to this beautiful city. Once known as the murder capital of the world, Medellín is now considered the most innovative city in the world. This transformation is particularly visible in one of Medellín’s most dangerous neighborhoods, Comuna 13. A place once so unsafe even for its inhabitants to live, the resilience of the people of Comuna 13 has helped it to evolve into a proud, vibrant community, and it was something I needed to see.

Comuna 13

There are 16 Comunas or districts in the city of Medellín. Comuna 13, also known as San Javier, is located in the western mountains of the city. Once used as thriving farmland, factors such as immigration, economy, and other changes led to Comuna 13 to becoming a community for displaced residents with little to no work opportunities or resources. With such vulnerability, drug and gun traffickers took advantage of the territory, and with the San Javier highway so close, it made for easy transportation for illegal activities. Several criminal groups, gangs, guerillas, and paramilitary had their share in controlling the area, all leading to more violence, kidnappings, and losing the lives of innocent victims every day. Until finally, it became a national issue and known as the most dangerous neighborhood in the world.

In an attempt to intervene with the ongoing warfare of Comuna 13, the Colombian military carried out one of several raids called Operation Oríon in 2002, to overthrow the guerilla movements. The bloody takeover lasted four days ending with the loss of many innocent lives and the disappearances of several others. Only several years later, has Comuna 13 finally been able to live somewhat peacefully in a community where its residents are no longer afraid to walk outside of their homes and feel hopeful about their future.

A Day In Comuna 13 – A Walking Tour

To help understand this piece of history, I took a walking tour of Comuna 13, and for the next few hours, listened to our guide’s first-hand experience of the life he lived during that time. When we arrived, he first pointed to a mural, with the word, Vida. “Vida,” he explained, “means life.” “It is the essence of the project in Comuna 13. Visitors must understand this.” We continued our walk, first up the escalator, one of six located within Comuna 13, and something, he said, that has made a significant impact on this community. I later learned why.

So, what did I see in Comuna 13? A warm, welcoming neighborhood of proud people. At first glance, I would have never believed much of the dark history that transpired just a few years before. I stopped several times to take photos of the beautiful artwork painted on the walls. Yet, they weren’t there for colorful photoshoots. Each mural had a story. Some portrayed the past – elephants symbolizing to never forget. Other murals expressed hope for the future.

We continue walking while hip-hop music blasts as we approach a group of rappers to perform in their designated spot. A group of break-dancers performs in another location. A crowd gathers around them to watch. Then they cheer and applaud before placing tips inside the jar on the ground in front of them. Vendors stand to the sides with carts selling fresh fruit juices and tasty street foods. Small shops with little windows display artful crafts, souvenirs, and jewelry. Groups of people gather along the walkway, sitting on benches and picnic chairs, laughing, chatting, and soaking up the sun.  

After a while, we stop to have the infamous pineapple ice cream at Cremas Doñas de Alba while listening to reggaeton beats and enjoying the view. I’m having the time of my life! Was this the worst city in the world? When we walk to our last point, we listen to a young boy named Steven, who stands in front of a crowd of tourists as he points to a large mural of animals. He asks the group to name the animals they see within the painting. There are many, he claims. However, very few people can find more than half a dozen. In nearly perfect English, Steven points out up to twenty animals in the mural, as each animal camouflages into another. The crowd is impressed, and Steven’s young partner passes around a hat for tips. I can see how innovative this place can be! It’s a stark contrast from the stories I’ve heard of murders, kidnappings, and other crimes. How did the worst neighborhood in the world turn into such a lively, optimistic experience?

Revitalization

During the following decade after Operation Orion, the government made efforts to finally improve the quality of life for the residents of those living in Comuna 13 by funding several projects worth millions of dollars. Providing building material and funding for new roofs and housing, modern libraries, schools, and other educational resources are some of the things that helped to revitalize the community.

Transportation

The construction of the new cable line in 2008 plays a major role in improving the community. Adding the San Javier station not only connects the residents of Comuna 13 to surrounding communities, but it also reduces the commute time for those already employed from over an hour down to about ten minutes. It also connects to the rail system, thus, enhancing access to new employment opportunities.

Escalators

One of the most important projects implemented for Comuna 13 was the construction of the escalators in 2011. You can find six of these orange-roofed escalators throughout the community. Since their installation, the quality of life as a whole is changing positively. Instead of having to climb hundreds of rickety steps, which took twenty-five minutes or more, now only takes a six-minute ride up when having to carry groceries and other items home to their families!

Using Art As An Instrument

The colorful murals are more than just artwork for tourists to take photos of and admire. They are ways to give kids unlimited opportunities. Instead of turning to gang life, young kids have another option to take through art and music as a means to express themselves. These programs are positive outlets that encourage the youth – that there is hope for the future.

A Work In Progress

I left Comuna 13 with love in my heart. I could feel the happiness and see the pride in the people. The improvements and new developments have given the community a second chance in life. Because of the innovative efforts, Communa 13 is now a major tourist hotspot!

So, does this mean there’s no more crime? Unfortunately, no. Although things have drastically improved, Comuna 13 still suffers from poverty and violence. However, people here are resilient. They remember the struggles they’ve been through, yet they know there is a bright future ahead of them.